The short version
Get rid of raccoons by removing them legally (with any kits), sealing the entry point, and securing the trash and pet food that drew them in. Trapping is regulated, so the removal and cleanup belong with a licensed professional.
- Get rid of raccoons with three jobs: remove, exclude, remove the food.
- Trapping is regulated — a licensed pro is required.
- Seal the roofline and secure the trash.
- A litter in spring changes the removal.
For homeowners and property managers with an active raccoon problem who want a plan, not a sales pitch.
What to look for
The fix is remove, exclude, and remove the food — in that order. Raccoons den in attics and chimneys, and they're a regulated species and a rabies vector. If you trap one but leave the entry and the trash, the next raccoon moves in.
- 1Scratching or thumping overhead at night — raccoons are nocturnal and den in attics.
- 2Torn shingles, a bent soffit, or a damaged chimney cap where a raccoon forced its way in.
- 3Tipped trash cans and scattered garbage.
- 4A raccoon latrine — repeated droppings in one spot.
- 5A raccoon wandering in daylight, which can signal rabies or distemper.
- 6Kits crying in a wall in spring, meaning a mother has denned to raise a litter.
Why it’s worth acting soon
- Raccoons are a primary rabies vector, so a daytime or aggressive raccoon is a real safety risk.
- Raccoon roundworm eggs in a latrine can survive for years and cause serious illness if ingested.
- A denning raccoon will damage insulation and structure raising its litter.
- An open entry means the next raccoon moves in after the first is removed.
A primary vectorRaccoons in U.S. animal rabiesCDC $300–$600Typical raccoon removal (published range)Fixr Serious in latrinesRaccoon roundwormCDC Treatment options and typical costs
Inspection and entry mapping
$150–$300
A provider finds every gap a raccoon could use and confirms whether one is denning now.
- Time
- 45–90 minutes
- Best for
- Any sighting or nighttime noise.
Trapping and removal
$300–$600
Live trapping and removal of the raccoon, done legally by a licensed provider.
- Time
- 1–3 days
- Best for
- A raccoon denning in an attic, chimney, or crawl space now.
Exclusion and repair
$400–$1,500+
Sealing the entry points and repairing the damage so the next raccoon can't follow.
- Time
- Half day to a full day
- Best for
- Repeat visitors or a home with known gaps.
Cleanup and disinfection
$300–$1,000+
Removing a latrine and contaminated insulation safely, with proper gear.
- Time
- Half day to a day
- Best for
- An attic or crawl space with droppings.
Prices are typical published ranges. Ask what’s included before you compare quotes.
Inside, look for flattened insulation, latrines and nesting spots. Leave cleanup to someone with the right gear.Remove the raccoon, legally.
Hire a licensed wildlife professional to live-trap and remove the raccoon — and any kits, if it's spring. Wildlife trapping is regulated, and a mother with kits needs handling you can't do yourself.
Seal the entry.
Once it's out, seal the roofline: cap the chimney, screen the vents and soffits, and fix torn shingles. This is the part that keeps the next raccoon out.
Torn soffits like this are typical raccoon damage. Seal with heavy metal mesh once they're gone.Remove the food.
Secure the trash with locking lids, bring pet food in at night, and clean up fallen fruit. A raccoon that can't eat near your house has no reason to den there.
When to call.
Call when a raccoon is denning inside, when you see one acting sick, or when you find a latrine. The removal, the cleanup, and the kit handling are all a licensed professional's job.
The order matters.
Remove, then exclude, then clean. Trap the raccoon out, seal the entry so it can't return, and clean the latrine. Doing it out of order — sealing before removing, or skipping the cleanup — is how a small job becomes a big one.
The kit complication.
In spring, check for kits before and during removal. A mother without her litter, or kits left in the wall, is both inhumane and a bigger problem. A licensed provider handles this; a homeowner can't.
The food source.
Raccoons come for food and stay for shelter. Even after removal and sealing, unsecured trash and overnight pet food keep drawing new raccoons. The food fix is the part of the job that lasts.
The seasonal cadence.
Raccoons den in spring and forage in fall, so the prevention rhythm is a spring roofline check before denning and a fall check before the foraging push. Two well-timed passes beat a season of reactions.
The whole-property pass.
Getting rid of raccoons means closing every route and food source, not just the one you saw. Walk the roofline, the outbuildings, and the trash areas once, and fix them all. A raccoon that can't find food or an entry anywhere on the property has no reason to stay.
When you've done everything.
If you've removed the raccoon, sealed the entry, and secured the food, and one still shows up, it's time for a professional inspection — the entry may be somewhere you haven't looked, or a neighbor's property may be the source. Escalate when your own effort plateaus.
What affects the price
- Whether raccoons are denning in the attic versus just passing through the yard.
- The number and location of entry points that need sealing.
- Whether a litter is present.
- Whether a latrine needs cleanup and disinfection.
- The repair work required after roofline or soffit damage.
- Emergency or same-day calls.
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What has been your biggest challenge with raccoon removal?
When to call for help
Call a licensed professional when a raccoon is denning in the attic, chimney, or crawl space, when you see one wandering in daylight, or when you find a latrine. Raccoons are a primary rabies vector (CDC), and wildlife trapping is regulated, so a licensed provider is required.
What you can do yourself
What isn't yours is the raccoon itself — trapping is regulated, and the latrine cleanup is a health job, because raccoon droppings can carry roundworm (CDC). Prevention is safely yours: secure the trash, cap the chimney, trim the branches, and remove pet food at night. Leave both to a licensed professional.
Where you live matters
Raccoons are found nationwide and are a regulated wildlife species and a primary rabies vector. Removal and cleanup belong with a licensed professional. The most useful first step in How To Get Rid Of Raccoons is to note where you have seen raccoons activity and when it appears, so an inspection is faster and the quote more accurate. In How To Get Rid Of Raccoons, checking the usual entry points, moisture spots, and sheltered areas near the structure usually turns up the conditions that are letting them in. A local provider who knows How To Get Rid Of Raccoons can point out the specific things that matter most here before you commit to a plan. In How To Get Rid Of Raccoons, before you book, ask whether the inspection is included, what the treatment plan covers, how many visits to expect, and what the written quote includes. In How To Get Rid Of Raccoons, getting the scope, the prep steps, and any follow-up terms in writing makes it much easier to compare providers fairly, and a good provider will walk you through each of these without pressure. In How To Get Rid Of Raccoons, a little preparation usually makes the visit more useful: clear access to the areas where you have seen activity, put away loose items, and note anything you have noticed recently. In How To Get Rid Of Raccoons, if you have photos or a rough timeline of when the problem started, share them, because those details help the provider confirm what is going on and give you a more accurate scope and price. In How To Get Rid Of Raccoons, after treatment, ask what to watch for and when a follow-up visit would make sense. In How To Get Rid Of Raccoons, most problems do not disappear after a single visit if the conditions that caused them are still present, so the plan should spell out what changes afterward and how you will know it worked. Prevention is the part that keeps the problem from coming back. In How To Get Rid Of Raccoons, that usually means sealing the gaps and moisture issues the inspection turned up, adjusting what is stored near the structure, and staying on top of the small warning signs before they become a bigger job. Most bat work is about the roofline and the attic. In How To Get Rid Of Raccoons, bats squeeze through gaps as small as three-eighths of an inch, so an inspection looks closely at ridge vents, gable vents, soffits, and the joints where the roof meets the wall. In How To Get Rid Of Raccoons, a short watch at dusk is often the clearest way to confirm where they are getting in and out. In How To Get Rid Of Raccoons, if you have seen a bat indoors, keep the room closed and do not handle it bare-handed. In How To Get Rid Of Raccoons, a bat found in a room where someone was sleeping, or one that may have touched a child or pet, is treated as a possible exposure, so contact public health or a doctor before releasing it. In How To Get Rid Of Raccoons, exclusion is the durable fix: one-way devices let the bats leave but not return, and then every remaining gap is sealed. In How To Get Rid Of Raccoons, it has to be timed outside the maternity season so young bats are not stranded inside, which is why it is usually a professional job rather than a do-it-yourself one.
Simple ways to keep raccoons away
- Secure trash cans with locking lids and take them out only on pickup morning.
- Cap the chimney and screen vents and soffits.
- Trim tree branches back from the roof.
- Seal gaps under porches, decks, and sheds.
- Remove pet food and bird feeders at night.
- Check the roofline each spring and fall for new gaps.
Ask how kits will be handled and whether cleanup and sealing are included.Did you know?
Raccoons have extremely sensitive front paws and can remember solutions to tasks for up to three years.
A raccoon's facial mask reduces glare and may sharpen its night vision.
Raccoons are nocturnal, so one wandering in daylight can be a sign of rabies or distemper — not curiosity.
Questions people ask
How do I get rid of raccoons for good?
Remove them legally, seal the entry, and secure the food. There's no one-and-done — it's the three jobs together that work.
Can I get rid of raccoons without killing them?
Yes — live trapping and relocation is the standard, done by a licensed professional where the law allows.
How long does raccoon removal take?
A few days to a couple of weeks when a litter is involved: inspection, trapping, removal, exclusion, and cleanup.
Will they come back?
They can, if the entry stays open and the food stays accessible. Sealing the entry and securing the trash is what makes removal stick.
Sources (5)
The facts in this article come from the public sources listed above. Every home is different, so ask the company you talk to about pricing and what’s included. Published by Raccoon Exterminator · Updated October 13, 2026 · How we write these guides